Cat Toilet Training System By Litter Kwitter – Teach Your Cat to Use the Toilet – With Instructional DVD

7 reviews for Cat Toilet Training System By Litter Kwitter – Teach Your Cat to Use the Toilet – With Instructional DVD

1. 

   Rated 3 out of 5

   mimacello (verified owner) – December 28, 2020

   Estafa

   Llegó roto y como si estuviera usado anteriormente. El vendedor no es confiable, recomiendo no comprarle

2. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   Amazon Customer (verified owner) – August 18, 2024

   Good product

   Good product, my cat is slow learner so we are still in progress. We have time and patience and reached last circle after months and months … at least cat is having progress. Yes , she’s on the last ring but I do not need to buy any more litter. Finally !

3. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   G. Jones (verified owner) – December 25, 2024

   Good Product

   Very good product but my cat was not impressed 😂😂😂

4. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   Official Litter Kwitter video. (verified owner) – January 6, 2025

   TRAINED MY 10-YEAR OLD MUTT RESCUE CAT. BUT HERE'S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW.

   I trained my 10-year old domestic short hair mutt rescue cat successfully on this system. However, there are several home-versions you can find on youtube. But these methods involve removing all of the water from your toilet, and filling a deep mixing bowl to insert inside the toilet filled with cat litter. This method won't allow you or guests to use your toilet yourself, while in training, so if it's your only toilet, it won't work. The Litter Kwitter does – you have to move the trays off though first (***and remember to put them back).

   I bought both this product and City Kitty, but found this one to be superior for two reasons:
   1. It's sturdier
   2. After "graduating" to the next ring on either system, if you have an accident, you may have to regress and go back to the previous tray. The punch-out system of the City Kitty product doesn't allow for that.

   This product works extremely well, but these are my insights for training that I wish others had shared with me:

   1. SUCCESS TAKES 2-3X LONGER THAN PROMISED
   If you work from home or are a house-parent, this is ideal. If you don't, it will be difficult for you to change the trays 5+ times/day for this training after you graduate to not having any litter in the trays.

   Cats eliminate where they feel safe – it's instinctive – they don't want to be attacked, nor attract another animal to their elimination spot. That's why they don't like a dirty box/tray. (They would prefer you cleaned their boxes daily – why the mechanical boxes are a bad idea.)

   So cats may eliminate improperly if you're not cleaning these trays regularly, every time they go.
   So consider your planned vacations and do this when you know you'll be home for a 3 month run if you want it to really work. Otherwise you'll need a cat sitter that can come 4x a day minimum.
   (Eventually you graduate to not using any litter, and your cats are not going to step into litter-less trays of piss. Sometimes they'll miss the hole and that's what you'll have. If you don't have someone coming to clean often enough (and they pee as much as 5 times a day – your cats will eliminate outside of it.)

   Every time you transition from one insert to the next, expect a possible setback. Your cat may protest pooping in the toilet because it's not as comfortable to stand on a ledge, as on the ground (peeing is easier to get them to do). So they may poop on the floor in front of your toilet. If they do this, revert to the previous tray and start giving more verbal praise when they do either in the toilet correctly.
   The folks that fail with this process are probably doing a few things wrong: they're not patient enough, they're not cleaning nearly as often as they should be, and they're not giving enough praise to the animal when they get it right.
   Use an immense amount of positive talk to "reward" your cat and get them to repeat the good behavior. If you end up frustrated, it's probably your fault.

   2. TRAIN ALL TOILETS (& CATS) TOGETHER

   Don't think one cat will use the box and the other this. Not likely.

   Start off this training by getting some door stoppers, and don't move them. Ever.
   You don't want your cat locked out of their toilet(s). If you have more than one toilet in the house, go get a litter box to put next to each, and order one of these kits for each to train in all steps at all toilets. (Unless you plan on never opening the door of that bathroom for the cat).
   Doing this in more than one toilet is also highly recommended if you have more than one cat if you want success. Think about it, at some point you're going to have a guest use the toilet your cats use. Or sometime you'll forget yourself and close the bathroom door. When this happens, your cats are not going to know to "wait" or that someone else is using their restroom. All they're going to know is panic – that they've been locked out of their restroom. So training in ALL toilets gives them a backup to go to. It's common sense.

   Is it gross to have kitty feet on your toilet? Only if you wear shoes inside and have dirty floors. In which case, I'd recommend putting some wipes next to your toilet. But really, what's more disgusting than a box of litter in your home, and dirty feet tracking bacteria and crumbles throughout your house?

   3. REMEMBER, IT'S THEIR TERRITORY
   The first step in this training process is to slowly move the litter box(es) toward your bathroom(s) you'll be training in. Remember, you're moving more than a box, it's a marker of their territory and belonging/acceptance to your space.
   Move your cat box(es) slowly toward the bathroom(s), so they don't feel their bathroom should still be in whichever corner you just took it from. Move SLOW is my advice, or you may regret it. It's messy during the transition and you may have litter in your hallway. It pays off in the end when you have a litter-free, box-less life.
   *Some tips for your bathroom:
   Cats will often poop on a rug because the rubber backing is toxic to them and they don't like the smell (Your plastic shower curtain is also toxic to them, and you). If you want to create a cat-friendly bathroom, make sure you don't have a new shower curtain or any rugs they don't like. Throw away anything they poop on – they're trying to tell you something.
   If they pee, wash, then soak it with this product from amazon: Bubba's Terminator before washing again.

   4. PREPARE FOR MISHAPS
   If your animals make a mistake, it's important NOT to discipline them or even sound disappointed in front of them – or you can confuse them even more and end up with a BIG problem.
   When you are upset, from their point of view you're telling them that going to the bathroom is wrong. They don't understand why and they may end up just going out of the box and afraid that anywhere they go is "wrong".

   Don't react when they make a mistake.
   Get a black light to see what's really going on, because otherwise you probably won't know how bad it is. Clean with Bubba's Terminator from Amazon if you don't want them to return to the area. Otherwise, even though you can't smell it, they can. Bleach and even extra-strength cleaners won't do the job. (Watch a few episodes of My Cat From Hell for proof.) Traditional store-bought cleaners are toxic to your cat's paws which they lick them.

   5. BUY LITTER ATTRACT (2 bags)
   You don't need to elevate your cat box to get them "used to jumping" as the one reviewer says.
   (Since when do cats need to be trained to jump? Hilarious.) All they need is to smell the alluring scent.
   After you move the box and finally have it in the bathroom(s) for a full 2-3 weeks and they're using it regularly without any accidents elsewhere you're ready to transition to the Litter Kwitter. Use Litter Attract atop any litter. (I recommend World's Best Cat Litter – unscented.
   Litter Attract sends the, "YES, YOU belong here" message to your cat.

   *Cat pee is strong stuff, so be cautious where you store the waste inside or out, or your cats and others may spray that area repeatedly.
   *You can spray your garbage cans outside with Orange Oil (also sold on Amazon), but NEVER spray it near or on a cat – it deters cats but is not safe inside your home as it can be toxic to cats. Use only outdoors where they can avoid it, or you'll be repelling your cat to your entire home, inside of it, which is unfair.

   7. GIVE RIDICULOUS AMOUNTS OF PRAISE, OFTEN
   Positive reinforcement works.
   Give treats AFTER and ONLY when they've used the Litter Kwitter properly (but not during – give your cat space).
   When your cat eliminates properly in the trays, give a ton of verbal, exaggerated praise for longer than you want.
   Use your most syrupy, highest voice (as animal behaviorist Jackson Galaxy recommends). Say, "Good + their name" repeatedly until their tail is straight up in the air, all proud. Do this EVERY time you possibly can when you see them use the Litter Kwitter. If you can carry your cat to the toilet without them getting worried, do so and then give praise so they know what they're being praised for.

   8. EXPECT IT TO BE GROSS
   This system works but take patience and time. I found it to take 2-3 times as long as they promised. And in the meantime, it's REALLY messy to clean.
   Eventually you'll transition away from litter all together, and be dumping pools of cat urine off the trays. (Be cautious not to use wipes and then put anything that touched the urine or poop in the inside waste bin or your cat may pee there.) All of this cleanup is way more intimate than anyone wants to get with their cat's elimination. If you're not prepared and don't have the patience for this, get a box (not a covered one), and if you're having problems with them going outside of it watch some My Cat from Hell episodes and you should be able to fix the problem quickly.

   9. AFTER YOU GRADUATE FROM LITTER
   When you clean, don't use bleach or traditional grocery-store products. A cat LICKS it's feet to clean them, so when you use a toxic cleaner, you could make them sick. Use an organic cleaner to clean the trays. Something like Fizzion Pet Stain & Odor Remover (sold on Amazon).
   ONCE YOU GRADUATE FROM LITTER IN THE TRAYS DO NOT use an enzymatic cleaner (I recommended Bubba's etc). You WANT the trays to remain smelling like the cat's pee to THEM (not you). An enzymatic cleaner like Bubba's will make that scent disappear to them as well. You want the pee scent visible to them to reinforce, "Yes, go HERE! Here is your scent!"

   10. CLEAN THE INSERTS CONSTANTLY
   Cats are clean animals. Humans would never leave their excrement sitting in their home, but bizarrely, leave a cat box for days without scooping and think it's fine. Yet complain it smells.
   A cat doesn't like this. (Neither do your house guests).
   Just like a box, if it's too dirty your cats may protest, and eliminate elsewhere. So if you aren't home for this training to clean every time they pee – it's not going to work.
   Once you've graduated from the litter, you have to clean the inserts 5+ times/day, per cat. Your animal is not going to step into a pool of piss to eliminate, so they'll go somewhere else.

   Remember the reward – once the training is successful, you'll never have to scoop or touch any of it again, ever. And you'll never have dirty litter paws tracking it all over your house again.
   If you end up frustrated, it's probably YOUR fault.

   Funniest thing about having a cat use your toilet?
   Sometimes you'll rush in needing to use the restroom and find they are, and you have to wait 🙂

5. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   Amazon Customer (verified owner) – January 6, 2025

   Clint is on last green ring - but it took time

   2015 update: Clint was using toilet for 3 years and we thought we had a great thing going. Then he was hospitalized with a urinary tract infection that turned into kidney disease. The vet told us this is something that is often seen with cats that use the toilet. Not a criticism of litter kwitter, which did what it was supposed to. But before you toilet train your cat, consider whether you're willing to put them at increased risk. If we could go back in time, we would rather scoop poop for years and have a healthy cat.

   Yay! Clint, our 5 year old, male rescue cat, is on the last green ring (for about 6 weeks), and we have been steadily decreasing litter for about 3 weeks. There have been a lot of set backs, but this is due to Clint, not Litter Kwitter. Be patient with your cat, he will eventually learn. Here's an account of how our litter training has gone.

   Litter Kwitter on the floor – Red stage. Make sure to put it on a puppy pad (we had left over pads from our Tidy Cats Breeze Litter system, which he had been using for a couple years) as the LK leaks between the colored tray and white piece.. We put the LK next to his regular litter and quit cleaning it. After about 3 days (he's very picky about cleanliness), he started using the litter kwitter, and I got rid of the old cat box. He stayed in this stage about 1 week. This is also a good time to get your cat used to you being a presence in his toilet habits. Start giving treats after a successful pee or poo.

   Litter Kwitter on toilet – Red stage. Clint had no problem adjusting to this step. I didn't even have to raise the LK on boxes. One of the mistakes I made was surrounding the toilet with his old kitty pads. Clint had was he kept peeing off the side onto the floor onto the pad. This is because he's a big, 18 lb male cat, and wasn't orienting his bottom correctly. Because the pee was being absorbed by the pad (and these Tidy Cats Breeze pads are great, they absorb so much odor), it wasn't bothering him and he kept doing it. Once I figured this out, I removed the pads. After peeing on the floor twice, and stinking up the bathroom and hallway, he learned to orient his bottom over the litter pan. You see, cats are very clean and sensitive about leaving waste odors. If you allow your cat to make an odor they will find a way to stop doing it. Strange, but true. Still, make sure you clean the accidents well, and use enzyme pet cleaner because you cat may want to pee if he smells old urine. Clint spent about 3 weeks on this stage. By the way, litter crumbs will get everywhere. Get used to it and think instead about a litter-free future with your furry friend.

   Orange stage. Heres where things got tough. Clint wouldn't do it. We went back to red stage and ordered the intermediate trays (multiple cat LK).

   Intermediate orange stage. Clint still wouldn't do it. We had to use the cardboard method. This is where you insert a cardboard disk with a tiny, pencil size hole into the LK. Gradually increase the size of the hole until you can remove the disk. Thankfully, inserting a card into intermediate orange disk is easy, as there is an ample lip that holds the disk nicely. Clint quickly learned that by peeing over the hole, his pee disappeared and we were able to increase the hole in the disk every day without him complaining. It took about 10 days on cardboard, and another week on intermediate orange. You may be able to skip buying intermediate by taping cardboard underneath the standard orange trays if money is an issue. But if you can easily spare $20, this is a convenient purchase.

   Standard orange stage. Once he was used to the intermediate orange, Clint had no problem using the orange tray. He spend about a week on this, and became very good at his aim, both for pee and poo. At this point, you litter scooping days will dwindle. By this time in LK training, Clint had gotten fully used to getting treats for his labor, and would alert us before he toileted by meowing and howling. Then he's so proud when he's done. It's really cute.

   Intermediate Green Stage. Again, Clint would not go. Again, we used cardboard. We cut out the same size as orange stage and gradually worked up to the new size. This took about a week. Then he stayed on intermediate green for about a week. We were filled with glee.

   Standard Green stage. Clint had a lot of anxiety on this stage. It's not much bigger than the intermediate green and he would use the toilet, but howl so much and jump up and down on the toilet. We got feline facial pheromone spray, and that helped some. Still, it was clear that he was distressed. After 2 weeks he started pooing on the carpet. We locked him in the bathroom, and he would poo on the floor next to the toilet. We read Doogies forum, and some owners found that their cats didn't like the splash. So I started laying down strips of toilet paper across the toilet bowl (4 strips of about 7 sheets each) and put the LK over that. It makes a net of toilet paper that his poo lands on before rolling between the strips into the toilet. I also put litter crumbs on the toilet paper and he seems to like that. I still had to lock him in the bathroom, but he would poo within 1/2 hour. We are still on this stage (about 3 weeks now) and I have been steadily decreasing the litter crumbs in the green pan. Interestingly, he will not poo now until I lock him in the bathroom. He howls at us, I lock him up, he poos within 5 minutes, I let him out and he's happy as a clam. Go figure.

   My plan is to decrease the litter crumbs in the pan as the next step, followed by decreasing the crumbs on the toilet paper. At this point I'm moving really slowly and I don't care if he stays on this stage for a long time. I'm not pushing him any faster than he needs to go because by the orange stage he was consistently peeing in the hole, so we haven't had litter smell in 2 months. It's great!

   The litter kwitter fit our toilet, although it is a few inches short. It is sturdy and has held Clints weight well, and he's a big boy. I have no issues with the design, and it seems that most of the problems people have are due to the cat or lack of patience on the owners part.

   Be patient with your cat and listen to what he's trying to tell you. Go back a step if you need too. Its so worth it to have Clint pooing and peeing in the toilet. I haven't had to scoop litter in months.

6. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   Clint E. Cat (verified owner) – January 6, 2025

   My Cat doing it after six months

   The media could not be loaded. I'm very happy

7. 

   Rated 5 out of 5

   Alex (verified owner) – January 6, 2025

   The best

   Used this system to train 2 cats now. A bit messy at first, but definitely worth it!